Soap and Cleansers


The most common cleanser used in the world to maintain skin hygiene is soap. Soap refers to a specific chemical reaction between a fat and an alkali resulting in a fatty acid salt with detergent properties.

There are currently three different types of bar cleansers on the market all called “SOAP”.

There are the true soaps, which are composed of long chain fatty acid alkali salts with a PH between 9 and 10.The high PH of these cleansers is excellent at thoroughly removing sebum, but can also damage the fats between the skin cells, known as intercellular lipids, in diseased or sensitive skin. This type of soap is good when the skin is very dirty or in someone with oily skin. The next type of “soap” products are known as synthetic detergents, or syndets, and contain less than 10% real “soap” with a PH adjusted to 5.5-7. These cleansers are less likely to damage the intercellular lipids, but also may not remove all of the sebum from extremely oily skin. This type of cleanser is good for people with normal to dry skin. A third type of “soap” known as a combar, combines alkaline soap with synthetic detergents to create a bar with greater cleansing abilities, but less intercellular lipid damage. This is the type of soap found in most deodorant bars.

Selecting the proper type of “soap” may be tricky, but once the three categories of cleansers are identified, the task becomes much easier. In general, all beauty bars, mild cleansing bars and sensitive skin bars are synthetic detergents.

Lipid-free cleanser

Lipid-free cleansers are liquid products that clean without fats, which distinguish them from the soap-type cleansers previously discussed. They are applied to dry or moistened skin, rubbed to produce a lather, and rinsed or wiped away. These products may contain water, glycerin cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium laurel sulfate and occasionally propylene glycol. They leave behind a thin moisturizing film and can be used effectively in persons with excessively dry, sensitive or diseased skin.

They do not have strong antibacterial properties, however, and may not remove odor from the armpit or groin. They also are not good at removing excessing environmental dirt or sebum. Lipid-free cleansers are best used where minimal cleansing is desired. They are also known as milky cleansers.

Cleansing cream

Cleansing creams are popular among mature women; cleansing cream offered the alternative to the harsh alkaline soaps. Cleansing creams are composed of water, mineral oil, petrolatum, and waxes.

These popular products are used to remove cosmetics and provide cleansing for clients with dry skin in one step. They leave behind a residue on the surface that makes them a good cleanser for dry skin, but not such a good cleanser for oily or extremely dirty skin.

Scrubbing pads and implements

There are a variety of scrubbing pads and other implements that can be used to cleanse the skin.

Most of these devices are intended to aid in the removal of dead skin from the face and body, and can be used with a cleanser or with an abrasive scrub. The key is to select the implement and the cleanser such that your client will not experience skin irritation.

Abrasive scrub

The recognition that the removal of dead skin cells was desirable to produce smooth skin in maturing clients, led to the concept of an abrasive scrub. The rubbing of the abrasive material on the skin, a process known as exfoliation, remove the dead skin.

Unfortunately, this type cleanser causes spots or pigmentation and sometimes discoloration and premature aging because the skin’s protection is damaged.




The only technique in the world that naturally stimulates fibroblasts which help boost

Collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production re-densify the skin.

As the true architects of skin, fibroblasts are responsible for creating the basic building blocks of the dermis, giving it density, softness, and radiance: collagen for firmness, elastin for suppleness, and hyaluronic acid for volume and hydration. Yet, as early as 25 years of age and despite a perfectly healthy lifestyle, the production of these rejuvenating substances slows.

Skin begins to sag and lose its density, creating wrinkles and furrows, mostly on the face, neck, décolleté, and hands. Other external factors, such as sun, stress, tobacco, or even pollution, can accelerate the appearance of wrinkles.


The patented LPG® treatment head exerts micro-pulsations over the skin surface to stimulate it and thoroughly reactivate the synthesis process of fibroblasts:

  • The production of new, good collagen and natural hyaluronic acid (+80%) gives the dermis back some of its volume and thus “lifts” the bottom of the wrinkle.
  • The synthesis of elastin (+46%) makes the skin more supple and more resistant to multiple muscular micro-contractions, which are often the cause of “expression lines.


The production of new, good collagen and natural hyaluronic acid (+80%) gives the dermis back some of its volume and thus “lifts” the bottom of the wrinkle. The synthesis of elastin (+46%) makes the skin more supple and more resistant to multiple muscular micro-contractions, which are often the cause of “expression lines.”


HYALURONIC ACID +80% in the result, Skin is replumped  and rehydrated from the inside

ELASTIN +46% in the result, Skin appears more  supple and expression lines are relaxed

WRINKLES APPEARANCE LESSENED +21% in the result, Skin density is boosted and the appearance of wrinkles is lessened

FIRMNESS +23% in the result, Collagen breakdown slows and production of new collagen accelerates



Microdermabrasion improvement in skin texture, but there are certain uses of microdermabrasion that are effective and some that are less effective. Microdermabrasion is very good at improving skin radiance and it provides a smooth surface for even cosmetic application. Actually Microdermabrasion can make all types of skin surface smoother, including stretch marks, acne scar but does not get rid of the stretch marks.

Microdermabrasion and treatment

Microdermabrasion can temporarily lighten some brown spots on the face. Be aware that if the lesion is a skin growth, it will again become brown before the next treatment. In general terms, aggressively treating brown spots to lighten them should be avoided. Keep this in mind; Microdermabrasion only works on the surface, not deeper tissues.

As a specialist with more than twenty years of experience, I came to this conclusion, by activating the second layer of the skin and simultaneously preparing the skin surface, and control Melanocyte we can achieve the desired result in the field of scars and pigmentation, of course not just use Microdermabrasion.

Microdermabrasion in skin color

Microdermabrasion is a versatile procedure. It can be performed in persons of all ages, sexes, and colors. However, special care must be taken when using microdermabrasion in persons of color. Deeply pigmented persons, such as African-Americans, Asians, Hispanics and Indians, have the tendency for the skin to darken once irritated. When performing microdermabrasion on skin of color be sure to care for the skin gently. Do not dial up the speed of the machine. Remember microdermabrasion can smooth skin of color, it cannot lighten pigmentation area or lighten skin color.

Infusion system By Microdermabrasion service

Infusion system is one of the newest additions to microdermabrasion. Infusion Microdermabrasion involves the same principle discussed previously with the particulate removal of the stratum corneum (first layers of skin) after the desquamating corneocytes have been removed, liquid is applied to the surface by the machine. The absorption of the substance applied to the skin surface is greater. This is good in that increased efficacy may be obtained, but bad in terms of increased incidence of allergy.

Common substances used after microdermabrasion for infusion include vitamins and antioxidants, such as vitamin C or Vitamin E but must be formulated as an acid to have activity and cause stinging and burning. If skin has a mild or hidden Rosacea or eczema. This service makes it worse.


The infusion microdermabrasion does not offer a clear benefit over manually applying material to the skin immediately following the procedure. Specialists need to determine the best services to provide to clients.

Physiology of the Skin
Dr Diana Draelos and Dr Peter Pugliese

Maryam RAhimi ,
Master Medical Esthetics

What Happens When You Keep Vitamin D Above 50

What Happens When You Keep Vitamin D Above 50

According to the table below, we can keep our body safe from the mention diseases:

Osteomalcia (Rickets)       100%

Heart attack                          50%

Peripheral artery disease       80%

Diabetes type 1                      80%

Cancers                                   75%

Cesarean section                   75%

Landslide                                72%

Colon cancer                           67%

Kidney cancer                        67%

Brest cancer                           50%

Diabetes type 2                      50%

Fractures                                  50%

Pre- Eclampsia                         50%

Uterus cancer            35%

(A potentially dangerous pregnancy complication characterized high blood pressure)

The risk of some type of leukemia   30%

How is role of vitamin D with body and skin

vitamin D is a most crucial is regulation the absorption of calcum and proper function of the immune system and may support weight loss and help to improve skin problem

Taken from the book Vitamin D Biology &physiology & Molecular biology

Edition 2 page 12 by D Micheal Halick MD,

(Aging) Elastin of skin

(Aging) Elastin of skin

The skin is composed of the epidermis and dermis, and the dermis is divided into two major layers.

The top layer and the lower layer, both of these layers contain collagen and elastin. The collagen is in the lower layer of the dermis while the elastin is in the upper layer of the dermis.

Whatever the cause of sun or free radicals within the skin, the elastin undergoes degradation from enzyme Elastase. The specific action of elastase is to break down elastic fibers. The result is a loss of retraction in the skins, the skin is pulled by gravity, so  that the skin droops and stays droopy.

Elastin of skin (laxity)

Skin laxity is one major sign in aging seen before wrinkles, because of contrasted with sun-damaged.

Usually there is a noticeable discoloration of the skin before other changes are seen, and the skin reddish-brown, almost leather- like appearance. Real wrinkles starting first around the eyes and mouth, progressing to the middle and lower face and then the neck.

As the process continues, the wrinkles become deeper. If the individual is a smoker and drinker, besides being a sunbather, the progress is very fast after the 37-40 age range.

‘Age”, “Sex,”

Autoimmune diseases can occur at any age, a general tendency exists for autoimmune disease to become more common with increasing age. Sex is another thing, women are more likely to develop many of the autoimmune disorders, with more different probabilities for different disorders. Overall autoimmune disease are five times more common in women than in men.

What is the difference between Collagen and Elastin

The connective tissue consists of three type of fibers, Collagen, Elastin and Reticulum. Collagenis composed of complex fibers made up of protein and arranged in long chains. Collagen is tough anddoes not strech easily and makes up 10 to 30% of the wet weight of the dermis. Elastin is composed of a highly resilient material that chemically is different from collagen

Explore out Anit-Aging Services to help with elastin. 

Pigmentation, Discoloration, Spot

Pigmentation, Discoloration, Spot

Genetic aspect of skin pigmentation

Colors are very important in our life. Most colors in biological materials are due to complex molecules, the most complex of which is Melanin .Melanin also known as pigment.

Skin color tones have Yellow, Blue, Red, and Brown. Yellow to the pigments called Carotenoids, Blue color is due to the Hemoglobin in the veins, Red is due to a blood pigment called Oxygenated hemoglobin, and last one the major brown color to the presence of the pigment melanin, which is produced melanocytes. Skin colors are a combination of melanin, hemoglobin, carotenoids and condition of the Stratum Corneum (first layer of epidermal).

Flaky skin of any color looks whiter or lighter because it can’t absorb light. What is perceived in skin color is the reflected light off the skin.


The melanin absorbs both ultraviolet light and visible light. The more melanin in the skin, the more light is absorbed and the darker the skin looks. In the case of black skin with more melanin, the broad absorption of light by melanin allows less light to reflect, so what is seen are mainly the reflected brown hues.

It is this broad absorption band of melanin that gives black skin protective quality against ultraviolet light. Melanin functions to prevent ultraviolet radiation of black skin by absorbing the highly energetic radiation and converting the energy to heat. This explains why dark completed individuals find it uncomfortable to lie in the sun and prefer to wear clothing to cover their skin when working outdoors.

Caucasian skin, so called white skin, actually is a red-brown hue. But because Caucasian skin does not contain as much melanin as black skin, white light is reflected from surfaces that do not absorb specific colors so the total spectrum, which is white light perceived. This reduction in melanin contents results in a reduced ability of the skin to protect itself from damaging ultraviolet radiation. This explains the increased incidence of melanoma, squamous cell carcinoma, basal cell carcinoma, wrinkling and discoloration seen in light skin colors as compared to darker skin color


Adapted from Physiology of The skin By DR  Draelos , MD and DR Pugliese, MD